Short version: Jim and I nearly missed our flight, which itself was uneventful. Got home safe.
The full story for my travel journal follows. Read on at your own risk.
Jim's alarm didn't go off. He awoke at 9:15. Breakfast closed at 9:30. Check-out time was 10. I was still full of the fish and chips from last night. Much as I live for bargains, it felt fine to pass on our last "traditional English breakfast." Our hotel was near Hyde Park, in Sussex Gardens, which has dozens of small hotels. We visited a few for price comparisions. Stylotel offers a double at 72 pounds during the slow season, if booked by phone. Days Inn, which has name recognition among Americans, was dearer: 105 pounds. Some places offer either an English breakfast or a "Continental breakfast." I imagine in some hotels that means real French croissants and pastries rather than the bagels and donuts of American motels, but probably not for 79 pounds a night. Speaking of donuts, Krispy Kremes are in evidence in grocery stores.
We took the double-decker bus #36 to the end of the route at Queen's Park, a 20 minute ride but just two tube stops from Paddington Station, in zone 2 of 6. It's a big city. We wanted to ride the Jubilee line to Victoria Station, and the Metropolitan line, but they were both closed for weekend repair. So our total for the week was five tube lines: Bakerloo, Central, Circle, District, and Picadilly. We bought sandwiches for later and returned to the hotel for our bags. From the lobby TV we learned that all transatlantic flights out of Heathrow were delayed. An air traffic control computer in Scotland had shut down. Jim decided to check-in online, which was key to our subsequent success.
We had both forgotten that the Circle line leg of the route to Heathrow takes about a half hour. (The Picadilly leg of the trip takes 50 minutes.) We got to the check-in queue around 1:30 p.m. for the 2:50 flight. All international flights close at "minus sixty." A cheery agent assured us we were fine, and that a closure agent would call us out of line if need be. We watched our line crawl along and watched for the closure agent, who never came by. When we got to the counter, the flight was closed. The closure agent was called over, and she assured us that there was no chance of getting onto the Boston flight, the only one that day. She obviously doubted that we had been in line and maintained that she had called for Boston passengers. She was not pleased when Jim said, "You didn't do your job!" She also doubted that we had talked to another agent, who had disappeared from our view. She offered to book us on the next day's flight. Jim insisted that Virgin Atlantic pay for a hotel and asked to speak to her supervisor. Just about then the cheery agent walked by, remembered us, and corroborated our story. Because Jim had checked in online, the supervisor found us in the computer and checked our bags 20 minutes after the flight was "closed." At this point we received VIP treatment. A new agent was asked to escort us to the gate. She took us down the first class corridor to security (no line, no waiting), actually taking her shoes off to go through security with us, and delivered us right to the queue at Gate 33. Because Gate 33 has no skyway, all the passengers were being "coached" (bussed) to the 747 on the tarmac, causing substantial delay. We arrived at the gate before some of the passengers who checked in before us, since they had to come through the economy security point.
Kudos to Jim! He methodically worked the problem and insisted on fair treatment. I was ready to go look for a hotel the first time the closure agent said the flight was closed.
Jim's seat was 50B, mine 65F, but we were just happy to be on board. I read some of Sam's pick for our family book group: His Excellency (George Washington) by Joseph Ellis. They fed us lunch and served beverages twice and even handed out ice cream bars. We breezed through customs at Logan Airport and Peter Jones kindly picked us up at the curb, or should I say kerb?
Monday, October 5, 2009
Friday, October 2, 2009
London Day Seven
We travelled back in time today, attending "As You Like It" at the Globe Theatre on the south bank of the Thames. We were in the back of the highest balcony, but the view was fine and the voices carried well. Every player was excellent. Katharine Hepburn made her comeback as Rosalind on the New York stage. It would be a great part for her. Jaques, the melancholy courtier, was played today by Tim McMullan, who played Prince Charles' secretary in The Queen. In the middle of the play we looked down to see him in front of us, delivering a line while leaning over our balcony. As he left he said, of his line: "It was a joke 400 years ago."
After the play we walked along the Jubilee Walkway along the south bank of the Thames. We had a hot falafel wrap and an almond croissant at PRET A MANGE, a sandwich shoppe franchise which specializes in very fresh sandwiches and lunch food. Which brings me to fast food in England. We see an occasional Burger King and MacDonalds, but the real fast food in Britain is sandwiches. Every little corner store has refrigerated shelves full of fresh sandwiches. I hesistated to try them the first time we saw them, but the cucumbers were crisp and the bread whole grain. Very tasty and healthier than Mickey D's.
We stopped in at St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, on Trafalgar Square. James Gibbs designed it in 1721, a rectangular building with a large triangular pediment supported by columns in front and a large steeple. It has been copied many times in New England churches. I just love the name. Right across the street is the National Gallery of Art. With museums being free here, though we always gave a donation, I experimented with the idea of going to the Gallery to look at just a few things. The NG has two Vemeers and several Rembrandt, who has been a favorite of mine since high school. While in the Dutch Masters wing we heard music playing and happened in on a concert of flute, piano and 'cello in a large gallery room. After Rembrandt we wandered around the Impressionists and Jim fell in love with John Constable's work. He bought a print which will be installed in Jim's office. When the Gallery closed we walked around Trafalgar Square and had fish and chips and a jacket before taking the double-decker #15 bus one last time.
After the play we walked along the Jubilee Walkway along the south bank of the Thames. We had a hot falafel wrap and an almond croissant at PRET A MANGE, a sandwich shoppe franchise which specializes in very fresh sandwiches and lunch food. Which brings me to fast food in England. We see an occasional Burger King and MacDonalds, but the real fast food in Britain is sandwiches. Every little corner store has refrigerated shelves full of fresh sandwiches. I hesistated to try them the first time we saw them, but the cucumbers were crisp and the bread whole grain. Very tasty and healthier than Mickey D's.
We stopped in at St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, on Trafalgar Square. James Gibbs designed it in 1721, a rectangular building with a large triangular pediment supported by columns in front and a large steeple. It has been copied many times in New England churches. I just love the name. Right across the street is the National Gallery of Art. With museums being free here, though we always gave a donation, I experimented with the idea of going to the Gallery to look at just a few things. The NG has two Vemeers and several Rembrandt, who has been a favorite of mine since high school. While in the Dutch Masters wing we heard music playing and happened in on a concert of flute, piano and 'cello in a large gallery room. After Rembrandt we wandered around the Impressionists and Jim fell in love with John Constable's work. He bought a print which will be installed in Jim's office. When the Gallery closed we walked around Trafalgar Square and had fish and chips and a jacket before taking the double-decker #15 bus one last time.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
London Day Six
BTW, at breakfast they call them baked beans, but I can't see anything baked about them.
Errata: I left off a Roman numeral I. The Tower exhibit was about Henry VIII's armour.
Today we toured the "City of London," also known as the "Square Mile." Our guide, who is Cornish, was informative and witty, as they all have been. He clued us in early on that the correct answers are always: 1666 (the year), The Great Fire of London (the event), and Christopher Wren (the architect). In 1666 the Great Fire of London destroyed much of the city. This gave Christopher Wren an incredible opportunity to remake London in stone.
The original guilds in London were known as Livery Companies. They were given an order of precedence in 1515. Mercers (merchants) were first, followed by Grocers, Drapers (wool and cloth merchants), Fishmongers, and Goldsmiths. Taylors (tailors) and Skinners (fur traders) have always disputed their precedence, so each Easter they alternate positions. However, this probably is not where the phrase "at sixes and sevens" originates. We sat in a lovely churchyard garden which the Gardener Livery keeps up.
Speaking of fish mongers, Queen Elizabeth I decreed that her people must eat fish three times a week. This was to keep the ships in good working order and in the ready if war should break out.
On the tour we walked down Leadenhall Market, which was the set for Diagon Alley in the first Harry Potter movie. We also saw the Lloyd's of London building, which is atrocious. It reminds me of a distressed sea cucumber, which disembowels itself upon upset. Lloyd's innards are all on the outside fabric of the building.
Do you know what defines a Cockney? Anyone who is born within the sound of the bells of St. Mary le Bow Church. We heard the bells and lunched in the cafe in its crypt. The sausage sandwich with onion marmalade was wonderful and the cheddar sandwich with chutney just as good. Said crypt was built in the time of the Norman Conquest, late 11th century, and its subterranean arches give the church the name "le Bow." Before lunch, Jim got a much needed shoe shine from a fascinating young man. He is originally from Lille, France, went to University, and then moved to London about nine years ago.
We strolled Covent Gardens and heard a young opera singer in a courtyard below street level. On a double decker #15 bus, sitting above, of course, we rode past Picadilly Circus and onto Oxford St, past the Marble Arch and on to Sussex Garden, near Paddington Station, where our hotel is. I love living near Paddington Station. It always makes me think of my oldest brother, Steve, reading aloud to his young sons about the bear from darkest Peru.
In the evening we went to the Southbank Centre and heard a free talk and performance of two short works of Finnish composer Magnus Lindberg, followed by a concert of the Philharmonia Orchestra performing the UK premiere of Lindberg's Graffiti as well as Janacek's Synfonietta and Stravinsky's The Firebird. Janacek has been a favorite of ours since my orchestra performed it in 1992. This evening we were in the second row, right in front of the celli and basses. We had a great view of the conductor, Esa-Pekka Salonen (also Finnish), and the concertmaster, James Clark. We could see and hear and feel the energy and heart that each performer put into the concert. It was thrilling. During The Firebird, the lights flickered occasionally and actually went out while the orchestra was playing, which added to the effect of the music.
After the concert we went to Waterloo Station and found a Pasty Shoppe advertising hand-made Cornish pasties. I had a traditional beef and vegetable pasty and Jim had a cheese and mushroom croissant from the Delice de France booth. They were both very tasty. Taking the Bakerloo line, a delay was announced while we waited on the train in Charing Cross station. So, we left the tube and walked around Trafalgar Square, then took the 15 bus again, this time getting the coveted, at least by me, seats directly above the driver. Being up so high while the bus careens down the narrow streets of London, I can see the inspiration for the night bus in Harry Potter. It feels like the bus must shrink to fit in the space between cars.
Errata: I left off a Roman numeral I. The Tower exhibit was about Henry VIII's armour.
Today we toured the "City of London," also known as the "Square Mile." Our guide, who is Cornish, was informative and witty, as they all have been. He clued us in early on that the correct answers are always: 1666 (the year), The Great Fire of London (the event), and Christopher Wren (the architect). In 1666 the Great Fire of London destroyed much of the city. This gave Christopher Wren an incredible opportunity to remake London in stone.
The original guilds in London were known as Livery Companies. They were given an order of precedence in 1515. Mercers (merchants) were first, followed by Grocers, Drapers (wool and cloth merchants), Fishmongers, and Goldsmiths. Taylors (tailors) and Skinners (fur traders) have always disputed their precedence, so each Easter they alternate positions. However, this probably is not where the phrase "at sixes and sevens" originates. We sat in a lovely churchyard garden which the Gardener Livery keeps up.
Speaking of fish mongers, Queen Elizabeth I decreed that her people must eat fish three times a week. This was to keep the ships in good working order and in the ready if war should break out.
On the tour we walked down Leadenhall Market, which was the set for Diagon Alley in the first Harry Potter movie. We also saw the Lloyd's of London building, which is atrocious. It reminds me of a distressed sea cucumber, which disembowels itself upon upset. Lloyd's innards are all on the outside fabric of the building.
Do you know what defines a Cockney? Anyone who is born within the sound of the bells of St. Mary le Bow Church. We heard the bells and lunched in the cafe in its crypt. The sausage sandwich with onion marmalade was wonderful and the cheddar sandwich with chutney just as good. Said crypt was built in the time of the Norman Conquest, late 11th century, and its subterranean arches give the church the name "le Bow." Before lunch, Jim got a much needed shoe shine from a fascinating young man. He is originally from Lille, France, went to University, and then moved to London about nine years ago.
We strolled Covent Gardens and heard a young opera singer in a courtyard below street level. On a double decker #15 bus, sitting above, of course, we rode past Picadilly Circus and onto Oxford St, past the Marble Arch and on to Sussex Garden, near Paddington Station, where our hotel is. I love living near Paddington Station. It always makes me think of my oldest brother, Steve, reading aloud to his young sons about the bear from darkest Peru.
In the evening we went to the Southbank Centre and heard a free talk and performance of two short works of Finnish composer Magnus Lindberg, followed by a concert of the Philharmonia Orchestra performing the UK premiere of Lindberg's Graffiti as well as Janacek's Synfonietta and Stravinsky's The Firebird. Janacek has been a favorite of ours since my orchestra performed it in 1992. This evening we were in the second row, right in front of the celli and basses. We had a great view of the conductor, Esa-Pekka Salonen (also Finnish), and the concertmaster, James Clark. We could see and hear and feel the energy and heart that each performer put into the concert. It was thrilling. During The Firebird, the lights flickered occasionally and actually went out while the orchestra was playing, which added to the effect of the music.
After the concert we went to Waterloo Station and found a Pasty Shoppe advertising hand-made Cornish pasties. I had a traditional beef and vegetable pasty and Jim had a cheese and mushroom croissant from the Delice de France booth. They were both very tasty. Taking the Bakerloo line, a delay was announced while we waited on the train in Charing Cross station. So, we left the tube and walked around Trafalgar Square, then took the 15 bus again, this time getting the coveted, at least by me, seats directly above the driver. Being up so high while the bus careens down the narrow streets of London, I can see the inspiration for the night bus in Harry Potter. It feels like the bus must shrink to fit in the space between cars.
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